September 22, 2020 4 min read

A Step-by-Step Guide for New 360 Wavers

Since the beginning of time black men hairstyles have been very diverse. I'm talking from the conk to the afro to cornrows to 360 waves. When it comes to getting 360 waves you have to put in some work to train your hair. It's not impossible to get waves no matter what hair type you have.

Your hair texture depends on your DNA genetics as well as the hair products you use to treat your hair and scalp. Hydration is key and will determine how easily your hair can adopt the wave style. You just need patience, a few simple steps and the right products and tools. 


💇🏾‍♂️ Get a haircut

Make sure your hair is around 1 ½” short for an optimal wave, but you can start the brushing process (read on) on short faded hair if you like. You’ll be trimming with short clippers just around your head from this point on for at least six weeks, so make sure to go to a barber you trust.

Rinse hair with a dynamic shampoo and conditioner before you start to cleanse off any buildup. You’ll be going longer between washes when you’re waiting for your waves to form, so it’s better to start with a clean base. 


🧴 Apply products

Usually, a quarter-sized dollop of wax to your hair and distribute it with your hands before brush your hair.


💪🏿 Brush session

Beginning at the crown or where your cowlick starts, brush away and downward from that spiral.


  • Brush your hair on your sides forward but, you should do this as it moves from top to bottom until reaching your chin.
  • Starting from the crown, brush the hair on the back of your head down, toward your neck.

    #DW Tip:Use a second small mirror for a better view, when you are brushing on the back of your head.

    Brush time: 2 minutes


    🤴🏾 Put your durag on

    This isn't optional, if you want to protect your waves from messing up while you sleep. Forgetting this step will set you back to a brush session.


    Remove the durag ♻️ Start the brush session steps for the next 3 weeks

    Don’t brush your hair or shampoo for two weeks, or as long as you can tolerate it (we think after one week is forgivable). Note: Shampooing breaks up your curl pattern, so the longer you can go without it, the more defined your waves will be.


    ✅ Next: Maintaining

    💦 Moisturize, Moisturize, Moisturize

    Keeping your hair hydrated is the key point for those perfect 360 waves. Drink plenty of fluids. It is also useful to use moisturizing hair conditioners.

    🕸 Keep brushing your hair and using durags

    Repeat the brushing process daily and put it on your head in a durag before going to bed at night. In this way, you can develop more defined and deep waves. Your 360 wave should be complete after several months of brushing several times a day. This period can be shortened by an effective application.

    Important Tips For 360 Waves Process

    • Don’t over wash your hair
    • Make sure you don’t over-grease your hair
    • Use natural moisturizer during 360 wave process (avoid pomades containing petroleum)
    • Purchase a wave brush (purchase one here)
    • Brush your hair only when it’s moist
    • Take Biotin and use argan oil for your hair health
    • Try wolfing (advanced wave technique)


    When should I get my first haircut?

    You have to find a barber you trust to cut your hair in the direction your waves are growing. Depending on how long your manage to wolf and compress your hair, you should be able to get a haircut in about 4 weeks after starting the process.


    How is a wave brush different from a standard hairbrush?

    The primary difference between a wave brush and a regular brush is that a wave brush is shaped to fit the contours of your scalp, which allows it to move easily in the direction of your waves to train them for greater definition. Nearly all wave brushes feature natural bristles, while standard hair brushes can feature natural bristles, synthetic bristles, or a combination of both. The natural bristles help minimize frizz, so your waves look as smooth as possible. The bristles on a wave brush are also spaced in a specific way to avoid snagging or tugging at your hair to maintain the natural shape of your waves.


    How long does a wave brush usually last?

    The lifespan of a wave brush depends on its quality and how well you care for it. Inexpensive brushes that are made with synthetic bristles and plastic handles tend to wear out pretty quickly, so you’ll usually have to replace one every six months to a year. If you purchase a wave brush with natural bristles and a wood body and handle, you can get several years of use out of it, with many lasting as long as 10 years. Keep in mind, though, that you must care for your brush properly to help it last as long as possible. Clean your wave brush with shampoo weekly to remove any hair product residue, as well as other dirt, oil, and bacteria that can accumulate.


    Which type of wave brush offers the most versatility?

    If you’re not sure what type of wave brush to buy or you change your hair length frequently, a double-sided wave brush is the best option. It offers both hard and soft bristles, so you can easily adjust the side you use based on whether you have a short haircut or a longer style.   

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